We offer many different services to help maintain your pool or spa. We do just about everything for your pool,
whether it be hands-off packages during the summer, mechanical repairs, advice and support, however we do
not build pools from scratch. We can do all types of renovations and repairs, though. Go to the Pools tab above
to see a list of our different services, or you can call 610-688-1767 or stop by our store in Wayne to speak with
one of our staff members for more information.
Who Do We Service?
American Pool Service has been the premier pool and spa service company on the Main Line for over 65 years. Located in the heart of Wayne, PA , right off of Route 30 or Lancaster Ave., we service all neighboring communities and townships. Have a question or are interested in someone servicing your pool? Call us at 610-688-1767 or stop by our store in Wayne , PA to find out how precisely we can help you.
How to Calculate How Much Water Is In Your Pool?
It is extremely important for both pool owners and service providers to know exactly how much water is in your pool. The easiest way to find out how much water is in your pool is to write down the dimensions and shape of the pool and ask someone (pool service or store) to calculate the volume for you.
Remember that approximations are fine as long as you know +/- 15%
To calculate it yourself, use the following formulas:
- Rectangular Pool – length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 7.5 = Gallons
ex. 16x32ft Rectangular Pool, 3ft shallow end, 6ft deep end
16x32x((3+6)/2)x7.5=2304×7.5=17,280 Gallons ( examples are not necessary if there is an automatic calculator app )
Round Pool – width (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 5.9=Gallons
- ex. 24ft Round Pool, 42in deep
Oval Pool (straight sides) – length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 6.7 = Gallons
- ex. 12x24ft Oval Pool, 42in deep
L-Shaped Pool – Divide pool into rectangular sections and add together
- ex. 14×35 with 14x14ft, 9ft deep in an L
14x21x220.127.116.11=7,717.5gallons, shallow section 3.5ft deep
14x14x(3.5+9)/2×7.5=9,187.5gallons, transition from 3.5ft to 9ft deep
14x14x9x7.5=13,230gallons, deep well
Freeform – Longest dimension (ft) x widest cross-section (ft) x 5.8=Gallons (or ask the installer or previous owner).
- ex. 21x32ft Kidney, 3ft shallow end with 8ft deep end
How Often Should I Add Chemicals to My Pool?
Sanitizer needs to be added in some way to the pool daily to keep the free chlorine level at 1-3ppm (we recommend checking the chlorine and pH levels daily). This, however, does not mean you need to physically add chlorine to the water each day, but there needs to be some way by which sanitizer is circulating the pool each day (an automatic chlorinator is a great option). Using the pool daily will help to keep your pool cleaner by ensuring the water is mixed up and that any small particles are stirred up so they can be filtered out of the water.
You should test your water to check chlorine, pH, and alkalinity levels and check that your equipment is operating properly (no leaks, the pump operates smoothly, the pressure on the filter is not too high) frequently. We recommend doing this 2 to 3 times a week.
We also recommend that you vacuum the pool often to remove leaves, pests, and grime.
Weekly, it is advisable to shock the pool. This will oxidize any contaminants in the pool, helping to head off algae growth, and reduce the amount of chloramines (combined chlorine). This can be done with chlorine shock (calcium hypochlorite or multi-shock) or non-chlorine (chlorine-free) shock. Chlorine shock should be used at night with any solar cover removed. This will ensure that the chlorine level remains high for the longest amount of time and that no one is likely to swim in the pool while the chlorine is high. Non-chlorine shock may be used at any time. We also recommend treating your pool or spa with an enzyme product to clean surfaces of any organic deposits.
Why Is It Important To Keep My Pool Balanced?
It is of utmost importance to keep your pool’s water chemistry balanced. Improper pool care can cause many unnecessary issues which can end up costing you a fortune! The buildup of chemicals in your pool if not maintained correctly can cause unwanted wear and tear on your pool’s filtration system and the shell of the pool itself. The easiest way to head off future problems for your pool is to properly test the water levels. We sell water testing kits, or if you are unsure at all or have any questions, bring a water sample to our store and we’ll help recommend the proper treatment of your pool to save you time, money, and hassle in the future!
What Are Alternative, Eco-Friendly Options We Offer?
As the world becomes increasingly environmentally conscious, we strive to offer options for those that may desire alternatives for their pool or spa that are chlorine and/or bromine-free. Many of our sanitizers, support products, and equipment are very eco-friendly, without any of the harsh chemicals or problems associated with traditional chemicals yet keeping your pool or spa crystal clear. Refer to our SUPPLIES and EQUIPMENT pages to check out some of our environmentally-sound products or call us at 610-688-1767 to find out in detail what products we carry to better suit your needs.
Glossary of Useful Terms
Alkalinity - A measure of the acid-neutralizing capability of the pool water: that is the water’s ability to resist fluctuations of pH with the addition of other chemicals.
Acid - A chemical compound that lowers pH. Two acids are most normally used for pools: muriatic acid (HCL – a liquid) and sodium bisulfate (dry acid).
Chloramine - A chlorine by-product that is formed by the oxidization of organic contaminants. It produces a strong chlorine odor that is associated with public swimming pools. It is irritating to eyes and skin and does not provide any benefit.
Combined Chlorine - The “bad” chlorine (chloramine) that has been used up by oxidizing organic contaminants in the pool water. This chlorine component cannot be measured separately.
Cyanuric Acid - A chemical stabilizer (also known as CONDITIONER) used to reduce the degradation of chlorine in pool water by UV rays or sunlight.
Free Chlorine - The “good” chlorine in pool water that is available to kill microorganisms and to oxidize contaminants. This chlorine is the component of pool water that must be measured daily. It is measured by test strips or DPD tests.
Oxidizer - A chemical that will burn up organic contaminants in pool water. Also known as shock it may or may not contain chlorine.
pH - A measure of the acid/base quality of a solution such as pool water. The logarithmic scale (each number away from 7.0 is 10x as strong as the one before) runs from 0 on the acid side to 14 on the base side with 7.0 being neutral.
Sanitizer - The chemical or device that kills or inactivates the microorganisms present in the pool water.
Shocking - The addition of oxidizing chemical to rid the pool of contaminants. Chlorine shock will leave a high sanitizer residual that must drop before entering pool. Non-chlorine shock will not and bathers can reenter the pool within 20 minutes.
Superchlorination - Raising the chlorine level high enough to oxidize all contaminants (5-10ppm), to destroy all the chloramines present (10x the combined chlorine level), to eliminate a green algae bloom (30ppm), or to deal with fecal matter discharge (at least 30ppm).
Total Chlorine - This is the mathematical sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine. This is the chlorine that is measured by the OTO test kits with a reagent that turns yellow.